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Tenkara and the Sulphurs

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It is the time of year when a young man’s thoughts turn to…sulphurs. Well, at least if he’s an eastern fly fisher. Again I’m presenting an experimental set of flies. This time I’m focusing on the sulphur hatch through a tenkara colored lens. Make it what you want, but in my opinion tenkara angling really shines for fishing unweighted (or lightly weighted) wet flies and nymphs, after all that is how it evolved. Sure you can fish heavy nymphs – but the wispy tenkara rod tip is just not great at handling these, it can be done but it is not aesthetically pleasing (it’s sort of a round hole/square peg thing). I don’t prefer it for dry flies – although tenkara handles dry flies beautifully and I don’t hesitate to fish dries with the tenkara rod. Some tenkara anglers may disagree with me but I find t difficult to create the “snap” necessary to really dry out a soggy dry fly with the tenkara rod. Sure that’s a small complaint, and you can always squeeze the water out with a shirt or whatever – but nonetheless…I will stick with my assertion that wet fly fishing is my favorite application of tenkara.

With that in mind I turned an eye to my sulphur box and tried to create some tenkara inspired flies based on old favorites. These are not tried and true patterns but I have no doubt that they’ll fool a few fish anyway.  Once I give them a try on the hatch – I’ll report back on the results.

This is a selection of soft-hackle emergers, all but the bottom left fly are tied with biot bodies.  They represent a range of emergence states.

A couple of more traditional sulphur wet flies tied with bunny fur bodies and grouse hackle.

Sulphur nymph wet fly: This is based on a basic sulphur nymph pattern with a black wing-case to suggest a nymph about to “hatch”.  In this version I simply used black fur abdomen and a wet fly style collar of grouse hackle instead of a wingcase and legs.

Sulphur Sakasa Kebari: This bunch is perhaps the most typically “tenkara-esque” of the flies that I tied.  I’m pretty new to the whole reverse-hackled sakasa kebari style wet flies, so I’m anxious to give these a whirl.

Sunken spinner wet fly – this is based on Pa angler/writer/guide Eric Stroup’s pattern as seen in  a Rise Forms Studio TV fly tying video.

 

 

Sulphur Nymph Experiment

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I’m never one to tout flies that I haven’t tried, so let me make it perfectly clear that this fly is still in development. Hopefully it will get field tested very soon (rain, rain stay away…). The driving force for this nymph is to get a natural mottled effect for my sulphur nymphs. I’ve tried hand blending dubbing, but I just don’t like doing it that way, it doesn’t feel elegant enough. Some shades of pheasant tail provide a very nice effect for sure – but I didn’t happen to have any of that on hand, so I dug into what I had and this is what I came up with – mallard dyed wood duck, mixed with turkey tail. I think it gives a nice looking mottled body. Is there a need for a new sulphur nymph? Probably not. But as you fly tyers know there doesn’t have to be a practical reason to try new things at the tying bench. Coming up with new combinations of materials to tie on a hook is it’s own reward, and if it actually catches fish, well that is bonus.

Turkey Mallard Sulphur Nymph:
Hook: Size 14 to 18
Thread: Rusty Brown Uni-thread
Tail: Mallard dyed wood duck flank feather fibers
Abdomen: Fibers from a turkey tail and mallard dyed wood duck flank feather twisted to form a “rope” and then wrapped onto hook.
Wing Case: Turkey tail
Abdomen: Amber dubbing
Legs: Grouse feather (partridge would work) – try to find nicely mottled feathers.

Orthodontic Flies

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It' Electrik

My neighbor works for an orthodontist and I asked if she could get me some of those little rubber bands that kids put on braces. I originally wanted them for rod building (you know to hold the guides on while wrapping), but when I saw the colorful selection she got for me I started thinking about flies.

I tied a few midges with the things. Although maybe some look more like tiny caddis larva. Whatever they look like they look good to me (and hopefully to the fish). The pattern is simple, just wrap the little elastic band around the hook (these are size 20) and you have an instant segmented body. Finish with a thread head and call it done.

The Simple Mysis: A Mysis Shrimp Pattern

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I’ve posted this pattern before as part of a fishing report – but I just happened to think of it and thought I’d re-post as a stand alone fly-pattern post. Let me get this out of the way – I do not claim to be an expert in the art of catching those huge mysis-eating trout of the Frying Pan and Taylor Rivers in Colorado. However, this pattern fooled several nice fish on those rivers in short order, so it must be worth something (maybe it was just something different). One of the main advantages of this pattern is that it is very simple to tie (no messy epoxy).

Simple Mysis
Hook: Size 14-18 (16 used here)standard Dry Fly (or whatever else you have handy)
Tail/Body/Shellback: White Anton
Thorax: Blend of white rabbit, white antron and Pearl Ice Dub
Eyes: Melted Climax Brown Monofilament
Notes: The tail, body and shellback are all one piece of white antron. I first tie-in the antron leaving a little for the tail, then twist the strand to form the body. Wind body, tie-off antron, dub the thorax, then pull the antron over the top.

Midge Madness or the Tiny Terror

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Midge#1 by Anthony Naples: done on iPod Touch with SketchBook Mobile

Midge #1 Sketch is based on a photo from the Winona Fly Factory Blog.

Well, I had been snowbound for almost a week.  The children didn’t have school all week – and they were getting a little stir-crazy (me too).  Normally with snow piled up outside, I’d have the vise out and be tying like mad.  Well – I was mostly otherwise occupied (see above about children not having school).

quarter midges

50 cents worth of midges: A few hours of tying (3 doz. midges)

However, I did find one afternoon to get a few flies tied.  Looking forward to some late winter and early spring fishing I find myself thinking about midges.  This probably conjures different images for different anglers.  For those of you out west, midges may make you think about the large tailwater rivers.  For those of us in Pennsylvania (think Central Pennsylvania streams) or in the midwest (think the Driftless Region), midges usually mean smallish, limestone spring creeks.  In either case, midges can be  a blessing and a curse.

A Blessing: It’s winter.  You’ve been fly fishing deprived for weeks, maybe even months.  You’ve gone through all your Gierach, you’ve read through all the latest magazine issues (maybe even ranted about all the articles about fly fishing for freshwater dorado in Bolivia – or is that just me?).  Finally a little break in the weather, corresponding with a break in your schedule, and you can finally get on the water.  For me, this usually means Spring Creek in central, PA, but for you maybe it’s the South Platte in Colorado or Waterloo Creek in Iowa.  You’ve got the heavy nymphs, maybe some buggers – but in the back of your mind you’re hoping for midges.  What joy these minutiae can bring.  It’s just such a wonderful thing to fish to actively feeding, and maybe even rising fish in the dead of winter.  A blessing and…

A Curse: Maybe you have it all figure out – me I’m still schooled sometimes.  You see the fish, actively feeding, you see the fish rising – you may not see the bugs, but you know they’re there.  Sometimes, it seems like no matter how small your fly is – the natural is half that size.  If you’re getting a little older – you may have trouble tying the thing on (I’ve given in and bought some cheater glasses this year).  If you manage to tie the fly on, and manage to get a hit, you can’t get a hook-up.  If you get a hook-up, you’re so excited (and out of practice) that you immediately break the tippet, or pull the fly out.  Maybe it’s just me – but midge fishing can be frustrating sometimes (but a good kind of frustrating).

The Patterns

There are more midge patterns than fly fisherman.  You could never tie them all (it might be fun trying though).  However, there are only a few that I fish time after time.  Maybe I could find “better” patterns – but after trying other flies and variations, I’ve settled on these as my favorites.  Of course, I always tie up some new patterns before heading out, it’s always fun to experiment.  These patterns are all pupa imitations  – I’ll need to work on another post to feature some dries.



Black_Thread_Midges

Black Thread Midges: My Favorite

Black_Thread_Midges

Black Thread Midge:

Hook: Standard dry fly hook, sizes 18-26.  You could use a curved scud-style hook, but I like to keep my hook selection to a minimum, so I just stick with standard dry fly hook.

Body: Black Thread.  I use Uni-Thread, 8/O.  This is a bonded thread.  Others prefer a flat thread that you can un-twist, to make a smoother body.  I like the texture of the Uni-Thread better, it is not so smooth and has a little “bite” to it.  It’s what I’m used to.  But use any black thread you like.

Rib: Small Diameter Silver Wire

The black thread midge is my go to pattern for midges.  Is it the best? Who knows, all that I know is that I use it and I catch fish on it.  I like the simplicity of the pattern.  I feel like the silver wire rib makes a nice contrast with the black thread.  In short I feel confident fishing it.  It may seem like a cliche but, you’ll catch more fish if you have confidence in the pattern you’re fishing.  You can vary the color of the thread and wire rib of this fly.  You’ll find a million variations on this basic pattern – but this is the one I’ve settled on for now.   I like to site fish it underneath to actively nymphing fish, or fish it in or near the film to risers.

als_rat

Al's Rat: Created by Pennsylvania Fly Tyer Al Miller

Al’s Rat:

Hook: Standard Dry fly hook.  Size 18 – 26 or so.

Body: Originally Brown mono-cord.  I used brown Coats & Clark sewing thread.  I like to twist the thread to form segmented body (like the Yong Special shown below).

Head: Sparsely dubbed Muskrat underfur.

The Al’s Rat was developed by Pennsylvania Fly Tyer Al Miller.  Read more about it on the Little Lehigh Fly Shop Website.  Being a Pennsylvania Fly Fisher I always have a special place in my fly box for PA patterns.  Again, this is a nice simple pattern, tied with two materials. Thread and muskrat fur.  I imagine you could change up the color scheme – but I usually tie it just as shown.

yong_special

Yong Special (size 18 and 24): Created by Andy Kim of New Mexico

Yong Special:

Hook: Standard Dry fly hook, size 18-26.  (Although a look at Andy Kim’s web page shows an improved Yong Special tied on what looks like a 3x-long curved shank nymph hook)

Body: Coats & Clark sewing thread. Summer Brown shown, also cream, olive. etc.  The thread is twisted to form a segmented body.

Head: Black Tying Thread.

Another nice simple pattern.  Although magnifying those size 24 flies shows how they are not as neat as I thought – oh well they’ll still catch fish.  Andy Kim is now selling his flies.  Check out Andy’s Website.

Diamond Midges: Pattern created by Pennsylvania fly fisher Don Holbrook

Diamond Midge:

Hook: Standard dry fly hook or any hook of your choice. Size 18 to 24.

Body: Underbody of flat silver tinsel, ribbed with a single strand of DMC Embroidery Floss.  The floss is made up of six strands – use one strand.  I tie them mostly in black, white, red, brown and shades of cream, tan and olive.

Head: DMC Embroidery floss.  Create head with multiple half-hitches of the embroidery floss rib.

This pattern comes from a book called Midge Magic by PA fly fishers Don Holbrook and Ed Koch.  This is a nice little book, it presents several new midge patterns and features some nice photos of naturals compared to the patterns.  The focus is definitely on the subsurface imitations.  Many of the patterns are tied with DMC Embroidery floss and Coats & Clark sewing thread.  So you’ll need to make a trip to the craft store or sewing store.  The nice thing about this pattern is that the DMC floss comes in dozens (maybe hundreds) of colors, so you can tie these flies in many subtle variations.

Casual Dress: Some Variations on a Theme

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casual_dress

Variations on the Casual Dress

The Casual Dress may not be a pretty fly, but its creator Polly Rosborough knew what he was up to when he first tied up this ugly beauty.  When I first started to tie flies, about 15 years ago, I was given Randall Kaufmann’s book The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual.  Mr. Kaufmann includes tying instructions for this fly in his excellent book.   He quotes Polly as saying that the Casual Dress was created to “simulate nothing more than just food”.

I must admit that, at that time, I wasn’t impressed.  I think that I wanted to tie flies that looked like something specific.  Flies that at least had all the “right” parts.  So I overlooked this fly for many years.   However, in the intervening years my attitude has changed quite a bit.  I have come to understand the appeal of flies like the Casual Dress.  But the Casual Dress was off of my radar until recently.

When the SwittersB & Fly Fishing blog featured the Casual Dress a little while back, it made me think “Oh yeah – I should tie some of these”.  Well It took me some time to get around to it but I finally did.   The Casual Dress is traditionally tied with just two materials; muskrat fur and black ostrich herl. It utilizes the noodle-dubbing technique for the body and a “fur-hackle” collar.  In this age of post-modern fly tying where anything goes and nothing is off-limits for consideration as fly tying material, the spare economy of this materials list is refreshing.

casual_dress_original_style

Casual Dress Original Style

The Casual Dress:

Hook: Tiemco 300, size 4-10.  This is a heavy wire, 6x long streamer hook.  I didn’t tie all of mine on a 6x long hook, but the longer hook makes it easier to create a nicely proportioned fly.

Tail: Bunch of muskrat with both the guard hairs and underfur.  This needs to be cut directly from the pelt.

Body: Muskrat fur, tied-in noodle style using a dubbing loop.

Collar: Muskrat fur with both guard hairs and underfur, same as for tail.

Head: Black ostrich herl.

Well, as many of you can probably attest, fly tyers have trouble sticking to the recipe.  We feel the urge to add a little bit of this, a little dash of that – it’s part of the fun.  So I was bold enough to riff on the theme a little.  I wouldn’t dare to make “improvements” on the original, merely variations.  In the picture below I present a few of these variations.  I stuck pretty closely to the original plan, but changed the body dubbing material and color, and in some cases the fur-hackle.

A few variations on the Casual Dress. Clockwise from top - Rust Rabbit Dubbing for body; All black bunny, bright-green rabbit dubbing body, all hare's-mask, all dark-olive hare's-mask

The possible variations are endless.  Are they necessary?  Probably not.  The original will catch lots of fish for you.  But fly-tying is a a lot like the blues, and rock-and-roll.  It’s the same three chords, endlessly tinkered with.  And every once in a while a classic is born.  So get the fingers loosened, practice some scales, learn a couple of chords and create your own classic.

Walt’s Worm

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Walt's Worm: An All-Purpose "nymph"

Walt's Worm: An All-Purpose "nymph"

Walt’s Worm:

Hook: Standard Nymph Hook

Body: Blended Light Hare’s Ear dubbing, such as Hareline Hare’s Ear Color

Thread: Tan or Gray

Tying Notes: Make sure to use a dubbing that has a nice mix of underfur and guard hairs, to get that “buggy” look. I tie most of these heavily weighted. I do leave some unweighted for those occasions when I want to drift it in shallow or slow moving water.

General Notes:This pattern was originated by Central Pennsylvania Fly Fishing star Walt Young. He created it as a simple crane fly larva pattern. However, it is so effective, in so many places that I think it is taken by the trout as many different things (sow-bugs, scuds, crane-fly larvae, caddis larvae). That general effectiveness is the reason it is a staple in many fly-boxes. Tie these up in size 10 through 16. make sure you fish it dead-drifting right along the bottom.

I use Walt’s Worm most often as a sow-bug imitation on Pennsylvania’s Spring Creek. There are more elaborate imitations available of course – but Walt’s Worm has caught more fish for me on Spring Creek than anything else.