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Midge Madness or the Tiny Terror

Midge#1 by Anthony Naples: done on iPod Touch with SketchBook Mobile

Midge #1 Sketch is based on a photo from the Winona Fly Factory Blog.

Well, I had been snowbound for almost a week.  The children didn’t have school all week – and they were getting a little stir-crazy (me too).  Normally with snow piled up outside, I’d have the vise out and be tying like mad.  Well – I was mostly otherwise occupied (see above about children not having school).

quarter midges

50 cents worth of midges: A few hours of tying (3 doz. midges)

However, I did find one afternoon to get a few flies tied.  Looking forward to some late winter and early spring fishing I find myself thinking about midges.  This probably conjures different images for different anglers.  For those of you out west, midges may make you think about the large tailwater rivers.  For those of us in Pennsylvania (think Central Pennsylvania streams) or in the midwest (think the Driftless Region), midges usually mean smallish, limestone spring creeks.  In either case, midges can be  a blessing and a curse.

A Blessing: It’s winter.  You’ve been fly fishing deprived for weeks, maybe even months.  You’ve gone through all your Gierach, you’ve read through all the latest magazine issues (maybe even ranted about all the articles about fly fishing for freshwater dorado in Bolivia – or is that just me?).  Finally a little break in the weather, corresponding with a break in your schedule, and you can finally get on the water.  For me, this usually means Spring Creek in central, PA, but for you maybe it’s the South Platte in Colorado or Waterloo Creek in Iowa.  You’ve got the heavy nymphs, maybe some buggers – but in the back of your mind you’re hoping for midges.  What joy these minutiae can bring.  It’s just such a wonderful thing to fish to actively feeding, and maybe even rising fish in the dead of winter.  A blessing and…

A Curse: Maybe you have it all figure out – me I’m still schooled sometimes.  You see the fish, actively feeding, you see the fish rising – you may not see the bugs, but you know they’re there.  Sometimes, it seems like no matter how small your fly is – the natural is half that size.  If you’re getting a little older – you may have trouble tying the thing on (I’ve given in and bought some cheater glasses this year).  If you manage to tie the fly on, and manage to get a hit, you can’t get a hook-up.  If you get a hook-up, you’re so excited (and out of practice) that you immediately break the tippet, or pull the fly out.  Maybe it’s just me – but midge fishing can be frustrating sometimes (but a good kind of frustrating).

The Patterns

There are more midge patterns than fly fisherman.  You could never tie them all (it might be fun trying though).  However, there are only a few that I fish time after time.  Maybe I could find “better” patterns – but after trying other flies and variations, I’ve settled on these as my favorites.  Of course, I always tie up some new patterns before heading out, it’s always fun to experiment.  These patterns are all pupa imitations  – I’ll need to work on another post to feature some dries.


Black_Thread_Midges

Black Thread Midges: My Favorite

Black_Thread_Midges

Black Thread Midge:

Hook: Standard dry fly hook, sizes 18-26.  You could use a curved scud-style hook, but I like to keep my hook selection to a minimum, so I just stick with standard dry fly hook.

Body: Black Thread.  I use Uni-Thread, 8/O.  This is a bonded thread.  Others prefer a flat thread that you can un-twist, to make a smoother body.  I like the texture of the Uni-Thread better, it is not so smooth and has a little “bite” to it.  It’s what I’m used to.  But use any black thread you like.

Rib: Small Diameter Silver Wire

The black thread midge is my go to pattern for midges.  Is it the best? Who knows, all that I know is that I use it and I catch fish on it.  I like the simplicity of the pattern.  I feel like the silver wire rib makes a nice contrast with the black thread.  In short I feel confident fishing it.  It may seem like a cliche but, you’ll catch more fish if you have confidence in the pattern you’re fishing.  You can vary the color of the thread and wire rib of this fly.  You’ll find a million variations on this basic pattern – but this is the one I’ve settled on for now.   I like to site fish it underneath to actively nymphing fish, or fish it in or near the film to risers.

als_rat

Al's Rat: Created by Pennsylvania Fly Tyer Al Miller

Al’s Rat:

Hook: Standard Dry fly hook.  Size 18 – 26 or so.

Body: Originally Brown mono-cord.  I used brown Coats & Clark sewing thread.  I like to twist the thread to form segmented body (like the Yong Special shown below).

Head: Sparsely dubbed Muskrat underfur.

The Al’s Rat was developed by Pennsylvania Fly Tyer Al Miller.  Read more about it on the Little Lehigh Fly Shop Website.  Being a Pennsylvania Fly Fisher I always have a special place in my fly box for PA patterns.  Again, this is a nice simple pattern, tied with two materials. Thread and muskrat fur.  I imagine you could change up the color scheme – but I usually tie it just as shown.

yong_special

Yong Special (size 18 and 24): Created by Andy Kim of New Mexico

Yong Special:

Hook: Standard Dry fly hook, size 18-26.  (Although a look at Andy Kim’s web page shows an improved Yong Special tied on what looks like a 3x-long curved shank nymph hook)

Body: Coats & Clark sewing thread. Summer Brown shown, also cream, olive. etc.  The thread is twisted to form a segmented body.

Head: Black Tying Thread.

Another nice simple pattern.  Although magnifying those size 24 flies shows how they are not as neat as I thought – oh well they’ll still catch fish.  Andy Kim is now selling his flies.  Check out Andy’s Website.

Diamond Midges: Pattern created by Pennsylvania fly fisher Don Holbrook

Diamond Midge:

Hook: Standard dry fly hook or any hook of your choice. Size 18 to 24.

Body: Underbody of flat silver tinsel, ribbed with a single strand of DMC Embroidery Floss.  The floss is made up of six strands – use one strand.  I tie them mostly in black, white, red, brown and shades of cream, tan and olive.

Head: DMC Embroidery floss.  Create head with multiple half-hitches of the embroidery floss rib.

This pattern comes from a book called Midge Magic by PA fly fishers Don Holbrook and Ed Koch.  This is a nice little book, it presents several new midge patterns and features some nice photos of naturals compared to the patterns.  The focus is definitely on the subsurface imitations.  Many of the patterns are tied with DMC Embroidery floss and Coats & Clark sewing thread.  So you’ll need to make a trip to the craft store or sewing store.  The nice thing about this pattern is that the DMC floss comes in dozens (maybe hundreds) of colors, so you can tie these flies in many subtle variations.

Casual Dress: Some Variations on a Theme

casual_dress

Variations on the Casual Dress

The Casual Dress may not be a pretty fly, but its creator Polly Rosborough knew what he was up to when he first tied up this ugly beauty.  When I first started to tie flies, about 15 years ago, I was given Randall Kaufmann’s book The Fly Tyers Nymph Manual.  Mr. Kaufmann includes tying instructions for this fly in his excellent book.   He quotes Polly as saying that the Casual Dress was created to “simulate nothing more than just food”.

I must admit that, at that time, I wasn’t impressed.  I think that I wanted to tie flies that looked like something specific.  Flies that at least had all the “right” parts.  So I overlooked this fly for many years.   However, in the intervening years my attitude has changed quite a bit.  I have come to understand the appeal of flies like the Casual Dress.  But the Casual Dress was off of my radar until recently.

When the SwittersB & Fly Fishing blog featured the Casual Dress a little while back, it made me think “Oh yeah – I should tie some of these”.  Well It took me some time to get around to it but I finally did.   The Casual Dress is traditionally tied with just two materials; muskrat fur and black ostrich herl. It utilizes the noodle-dubbing technique for the body and a “fur-hackle” collar.  In this age of post-modern fly tying where anything goes and nothing is off-limits for consideration as fly tying material, the spare economy of this materials list is refreshing.

casual_dress_original_style

Casual Dress Original Style

The Casual Dress:

Hook: Tiemco 300, size 4-10.  This is a heavy wire, 6x long streamer hook.  I didn’t tie all of mine on a 6x long hook, but the longer hook makes it easier to create a nicely proportioned fly.

Tail: Bunch of muskrat with both the guard hairs and underfur.  This needs to be cut directly from the pelt.

Body: Muskrat fur, tied-in noodle style using a dubbing loop.

Collar: Muskrat fur with both guard hairs and underfur, same as for tail.

Head: Black ostrich herl.

Well, as many of you can probably attest, fly tyers have trouble sticking to the recipe.  We feel the urge to add a little bit of this, a little dash of that – it’s part of the fun.  So I was bold enough to riff on the theme a little.  I wouldn’t dare to make “improvements” on the original, merely variations.  In the picture below I present a few of these variations.  I stuck pretty closely to the original plan, but changed the body dubbing material and color, and in some cases the fur-hackle.

A few variations on the Casual Dress. Clockwise from top - Rust Rabbit Dubbing for body; All black bunny, bright-green rabbit dubbing body, all hare's-mask, all dark-olive hare's-mask

The possible variations are endless.  Are they necessary?  Probably not.  The original will catch lots of fish for you.  But fly-tying is a a lot like the blues, and rock-and-roll.  It’s the same three chords, endlessly tinkered with.  And every once in a while a classic is born.  So get the fingers loosened, practice some scales, learn a couple of chords and create your own classic.

Shark’s Caddis Larva

While crawling around the internet one occasionally comes across something interesting and even novel.  When I saw this picture of Shark’s Caddis Larva, I thought to myself  “Now that looks good!” I need to tie some of these. The pattern is deceptively simple yet it looks so realistic – Radoslav uses a body of twisted antron and hare underfur to create the seductive translucence.  Check out the step-by-step tutorial for Shark’s Caddis Larva on the The Global Fly Fisher website.  Global Fly Fisher is a great resource for fly patterns and other articles on fly fishing.

Shark's Caddis Larva used courtesy of Radoslav Kiskinov (copyright Radoslav Kiskinov)

Shark's Caddis Larva used courtesy of Radoslav Kiskinov (copyright Radoslav Kiskinov)

The Traitor: A Parachute Style for Small Flies

Size 24 BWO Traitor

Size 24 BWO Traitor

The Traitor: A Style for Small Parachute Flies
Well, I’m in the process of planning a fishing trip to Colorado. So I’m thinking back to the last trip to CO, and the flies that worked.  Inevitably, I never seem to have enough of the flies that are working – so I want to avoid that situation this time around.

With that in mind, I find myself thinking about a small parachute style pattern that worked wonders last time. This fly is a small olive bodied parachute  – it accounted for quite a few nice rainbows on the Yampa tailwater below Stagecoach Reservoir. The only problem was that most of these were not on the end of my line. The fly indeed fooled a bunch of fish – but more for my friend Larry, than for me.   So I’ve named the fly The Traitor.

The Traitor is a fairly standard parachute fly. The major differentiating feature is the way that I form the body. The body is formed by twisting a strand of Uni-Stretch Floss into a “rope”. Dubbing a slim-body can be difficult on tiny flies – so I tried to find an alternative and came up with the idea of using the twisted Uni-Stretch body. In addition to allowing me to form a slim, smooth and tapered body, it makes for a nice segmented effect. As an alternative, you can achieve a similar effect with antron, instead of Uni-Stretch – but you’ll need to split the strand thickness in half for small flies.

I tie this style in sizes from 20 to 24. I’ve had luck with it primarily during hatches of tiny BWO’s and midges. Tie some up olive, gray and cream and you’ll have a good selection for tiny bugs that you might encounter.  Below is an example of a Traitor Midge tied with a cream antron body and cream wing-post.  Leave off the tails for the midge patterns.

Cream Traitor Para-Midge

Read the rest of the post for the recipe and illustrated step-by-step instructions.
Click here to read the rest… »

Walt’s Worm

Walt's Worm: An All-Purpose "nymph"

Walt's Worm: An All-Purpose "nymph"

Walt’s Worm:

Hook: Standard Nymph Hook

Body: Blended Light Hare’s Ear dubbing, such as Hareline Hare’s Ear Color

Thread: Tan or Gray

Tying Notes: Make sure to use a dubbing that has a nice mix of underfur and guard hairs, to get that “buggy” look. I tie most of these heavily weighted. I do leave some unweighted for those occasions when I want to drift it in shallow or slow moving water.

General Notes:This pattern was originated by Central Pennsylvania Fly Fishing star Walt Young. He created it as a simple crane fly larva pattern. However, it is so effective, in so many places that I think it is taken by the trout as many different things (sow-bugs, scuds, crane-fly larvae, caddis larvae). That general effectiveness is the reason it is a staple in many fly-boxes. Tie these up in size 10 through 16. make sure you fish it dead-drifting right along the bottom.

I use Walt’s Worm most often as a sow-bug imitation on Pennsylvania’s Spring Creek. There are more elaborate imitations available of course – but Walt’s Worm has caught more fish for me on Spring Creek than anything else.

Classic Wet Fly: Yellow and Partridge

Yellow and Partridge Soft Hackle

Yellow and Partridge Soft Hackle

Classic Wet Fly: Yellow and Partridge Soft Hackle

Hook: Standard Light Wire Dry Fly or Stout Wet Fly Hook, sizes 10 to 20
Abdomen: Yellow Floss
Rib: Fine Copper Wire
Thorax: Hare’s Ear Dubbing
Collar: Hungarian Partridge

Notes: Use light-wire standard dry-fly hooks for some and stout wet fly hooks for others. This will give you the ability to fish in the surface film, or deeper depending on the hook.

The thorax of hare’s ear dubbing should be dubbed large enough so that it can support the soft hackle -the thorax is there primarily to prevent the partridge hackle from collapsing against the body.

I like the effect of using a copper rib for the appearance of segmentation – not all tyers do this. I feel more confident fishing it with the ribbing though.

Make sure to tie the partridge in very sparse – stripping the hackle fibers from one side of the feather can help to keep it sparse.

Fishing Notes: I haven’t fished this color variation  as much as the Green and Partridge.  I include it though because I’ve  had success with it during  yellow crane-fly activity.  I haven’t yet used it for the Sulphur Hatch, however Dave Hughes in his book Wet Flies, recommends it for this.

Classic Wetfly: Green and Partridge Soft Hackle

Green and Partridge Soft Hackle

Green and Partridge Soft Hackle

Classic Wet Fly: Green and Partridge Soft Hackle

Hook: Standard Light Wire Dry Fly or Stout Wet Fly Hook, sizes 12 to 20
Abdomen: Green Floss
Rib: Fine Copper Wire
Thorax Hare’s Ear Dubbing
Collar: Hungarian Partridge

Notes: Use light-wire standard dry-fly hooks for some and stout wet fly hooks for others.  This will give you the ability to fish in the surface film, or deeper depending on the hook.

The thorax of hare’s ear dubbing should be dubbed large enough so that it can support the soft hackle -the thorax is there primarily to prevent the partridge hackle from collapsing against the body.

I like the effect of using a copper rib for the appearance of segmentation – not all tyers do this.  I feel more confident fishing it with the ribbing though.

Make sure to tie the partridge in very sparse – stripping the hackle fibers from one side of the feather can help to keep it sparse.

Fishing Notes: I’ve used this fly successfully for both Blue-Winged-Olive and caddis hatches.  In the case of the BWO hatch,  I fish it dead-drifting just below the surface – generally with no added movement.

For caddis hatches I fish it in more varied ways: dead-drifting, swinging, rising.  Let the situation dictate the action – try different tactics till you figure it out.